Women executives are constantly judged on their fashion choices. | Unsplash photo
What you probably already know: Women leaders constantly negotiate the unwritten rules of appearance and professionalism. According to Her Culture, many women feel they can’t progress in their companies unless they “look the part” by wearing heels, makeup, and fitting an aesthetic standard that has nothing to do with performance. A study by sociologists Kirsten Dellinger and Christine Williams found that wearing makeup in the workplace is often conflated with health and credibility. Women who skip it may inadvertently invite judgments, subtle or overt, as if they're unwell or less professional.
Margaret Thatcher and Hillary Clinton were pioneers in political power dressing. Thatcher’s signature tailored suits and pearls became a symbol of female leadership, as noted by The Guardian, which called her style “visual armor” designed to assert authority. As Hillary Kelly wrote in The Atlantic, Clinton’s pantsuits “became a uniform that communicated seriousness and consistency, distinguishing her from traditional female political figures while defying gender norms.” Yet, despite these strategic choices, their appearance was relentlessly scrutinized in ways that rarely extended to their male counterparts. “Studies show that men in the workspace are simply judged on their perceived skill set,” says British fashion journalist Caryn Franklin. “Additional studies also show that women are also evaluated on appearance, clothing and age. Clothes can certainly help to deliver a reassuring authority, but recruiter bias based on the gender of the applicant is real.”
Why? Dress codes have always been more restrictive toward women than men. “Women in power often walk a tightrope — expected to appear competent yet likable, authoritative but not intimidating, feminine but not frivolous,” says fashion psychologist Jennifer Heinen. “These conflicting expectations reflect deeper gendered biases. An outfit that might signal strength in a man (bold color, sharp tailoring) could be labeled ‘attention-seeking’ on a woman.” Nicola Thorp, a receptionist in London, was sent home on her first day of work at PwC, a major international consulting firm, for refusing to wear heels to work. Her protest helped ignite the #KuToo movement, which originated in Japan in 2019. The name combines the Japanese words for “shoes” (kutsu) and “pain” (kutsuu), alongside a nod to the #MeToo movement. The campaign has spurred conversations globally about dress code reforms and workers’ rights to reject harmful, gendered expectations.
What it means: Women are forced to live in sartorial limbo trying to find the perfect balance between femininity and conservatism. That subjectivity extends to race and culture. Grooming requirements such as “neat hair” have been used to penalize Black women for natural hairstyles such as braids, twists, or afros. Legislation protecting Black women from this discrimination — the CROWN Act — has been passed in 27 states and Washington, D.C. More than 20% of Black women report having been sent home from work because of their hair. A study in the Journal of Social Psychology called “Power and Provocativeness: The Effects of Subtle Changes in Clothing on Perceptions of Working Women" found minor tweaks in attire such as skirt length or blouse buttons significantly impacted the perception of competent senior-level women.
What happens now? These unspoken rules aren’t harmless. They shape how women are perceived and promoted. Young people are also challenging their schools’ dress codes, particularly in the Southeastern U.S. Illinois recently passed a law banning schools from implementing hairstyle-based dress codes. The American Civil Liberties Union took up a case in North Carolina where a school prohibited girls from wearing pants or shorts. Little has been done at the corporate level, however, to prevent women from having to navigate unspoken rules.
Today’s lead story is brought to you by clothing rental company Armoire. Armoire is revolutionizing the way today's busy woman approaches fashion with its monthly clothing rental service. Founded by women, for women — Armoire’s mission is to empower women to look and feel their best without compromising their time or values.
Discover the smarter way to get dressed — rent curated styles from women-led and inclusive brands, delivered straight to your door. Use code formidable for up to 60% off your first month, plus two bonus items — no commitment required.
